When your Bertazzoni flashes E11, it’s telling you the control board can’t confirm the door is securely closed. The usual culprit is the door switch (also called a door latch switch or interlock). That tiny sensor reports “door closed/locked” so the dishwasher can start and keep running. If the signal is missing or flaky, the machine refuses to begin a cycle or stops mid-wash.
Typical signs you’ll notice
- The dishwasher won’t start even though the display is on.
- A cycle starts and then quickly stops with E11.
- You have to press or “lift” the door to get it to register closed.
Why E11 happens
Most cases come down to one of three things: a loose connector at the switch, a worn or physically damaged latch/switch, or—less commonly—a control board input that isn’t reading the switch correctly. Heavy doors, misaligned cabinets, and years of use can also throw off the latch alignment just enough to cause intermittent contact.
Quick checks you can do (power off first)
Unplug the dishwasher or switch off the breaker before any access.
- Latch feel & alignment: Close the door slowly. You should feel a positive “click.” If you need to push hard or lift the door to make it engage, the latch/striker may be misaligned or worn.
- Inspect the wiring to the switch: With the inner door panel removed, look for a loose plug, bent terminal, or chafed wire going from the door switch to the harness. Reseat the connector firmly until it “locks.”
- Look at the switch body: Cracks, melted plastic, or a weak spring are all signs the switch needs replacement.
If everything looks intact and E11 persists, the control board may not be seeing the door-closed signal. That’s rarer but possible, especially after a surge or if there’s moisture in the console.
Simple do-and-don’t guidance
- Do power-cycle after reseating connectors (turn the breaker off for 5–10 minutes, then back on) to clear a latched fault.
- Do clean and gently tighten the door strike screws if you see play; tiny shifts can restore solid contact.
- Don’t bend the latch tongue with force—misalignment is better fixed by loosening screws, adjusting position, and re-tightening.
- Don’t bypass the switch. It’s a safety device.
When to replace what
- Door switch / latch assembly: Replace if the click is weak, the housing is damaged, or E11 clears only when you press on the door. These parts are relatively straightforward for a handy DIYer with the power off.
- Wiring harness section: Replace/repair if you find broken insulation or a loose pin that won’t hold.
- Control board (main PCB): Consider only after the switch and wiring are confirmed good. A tech can test the input and rule this in or out quickly.
Good reasons to call a pro
If your dishwasher is under warranty, if there’s any sign of heat damage at the connector, or if E11 comes and goes despite a firm latch and reseated wiring, bring in a qualified technician. They’ll check continuity on the switch, verify the board input, and make sure there isn’t moisture intrusion in the console.
Preventing future E11 errors
Close the door without slamming, keep the racks pushed fully in so the door isn’t fighting back, and make sure the dishwasher sits level so the latch meets the strike cleanly. If you ever remove the door panel (for cleaning or service), double-check the harness routing so it doesn’t tug on the switch.
E11 points to a door-switch signal problem. Start with alignment and connection checks, replace a tired switch if needed, and escalate to the control board only after the simple fixes are ruled out. If you’ve walked through these steps and the code remains, it’s time for a technician to diagnose it properly.
